Nissan Pathfinder; Ford Ranger

Question: 1993 Nissan Pathfinder

Dear Mr. Ciulla:

I hope you can help with my problem—thank you for taking the time either way.

I have a 1993 Nissan Pathfinder 3.0 4WD, with Automatic Transmission and Cruise Control. The problem is an intermittent no-crank situation.

Recently the alternator went out so starting problems were initially diagnosed as low battery. Alternator and battery were replaced; charging and battery now good. No-crank problem recurred within a few days, however.

Starter failing intermittently clicking noise initially, then no noise at all after a few turns of the key. Old starter when disassembled showed complete destruction of brushes, rotor contact plates warped and fused, brushes shattered. Later assumed this must have resulted from starting attempts—possible arcing.

Replaced starter with NAPA rebuilt. Good operation for a few days then resumption of no-crank problem.

Shorted posts on solenoid switch with ignition in ON position; starter spun, but no engagement. With key held in START position, shorted posts; starter immediately engaged and started vehicle. Good thing, too—my wife and I were 15 miles down a wilderness road in the remote northeast Oregon woods.

At this point, I’m assuming it’s either the ignition switch or the inhibitor relay shouldn’t click at all, I wouldn’t think, if it were the neutral-safety switch.

I read your article on the same problem with a ’93 Pathfinder Manual Transmission, and have printed a copy—if it’s the same routine with the inhibitor substituted for the clutch interlock, that would be all I’d need to know.

Again, thanks—and I WILL send a donation.

Robert Crawford

Halfway, OR

Answer:

The procedure would be the same but with the inhibitor Relay and Neutral Safety Switch (NSS) instead of the Clutch Interlock Relay.

But from what you're describing, and I'm not very clear on this, the starter solenoid clicks but the starter doesn't turn. And when you jump the solenoid the starter engages. Assuming I'm correct in this, it sounds like a bad starter. If you have power at the black/purple wire at the spade connector of the starter solenoid with the key in the START position, everything up to that point is good and working as it should.

Even though you replaced the starter, that doesn't mean you replaced it with a good starter. I have seen bad starters fresh out of the box plenty of times.

If you do not have power at the starter solenoid then we need to track back from the starter to find where the circuit is being interrupted. If you need a wiring diagram let me know and I'll send you one.

And thank you, it is most appreciated.

Question: 1995 Ford Ranger

I replaced the front oil seal on my 1995 Ford Ranger 4 cylinder twice now and it fails Is there something I need to do I'm not aware of? I've got one left but I'm leery to put it on and have it fail also.

Thanks,

Steven

Answer:

There is no special tricks to installing the front oil seal. As with any seal it is important to install the seal square without cocking it. Also make sure the land where the seal sits is smooth with no nicks or gouges. In addition make sure the part of the crankshaft the seals rides on is smooth with no nicks or gouges as well.

If you are sure you everything is good and that you have it in properly, you may have a crack in the front engine cover or the leak is higher up on the engine and running down, making it look like a leaking front crankshaft seal.

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