Buying a Used 1994 Saab Wagon

Advice on How to Be Smart When Purchasing a Used Vehicle

Nov 5, 2007

Your questions answered about buying a used 1994 Saab Turbo Wagon.

This weekly Q&A session answers your questions about cars and trucks. This week we discuss buying a used 1994 Saab Turbo Wagon.

Question:

I been a Saab lover ever since I can remember, but after seeing the Saab 850 I just went crazy. Well to make a long story short, the one model I been stalking is the Turbo Wagon. Here in Chile they are very expensive still.

But just a few days ago, I found a 1994 Saab Turbo wagon with automatic transmission. It is at a very, very acceptable price (60% off market price for similar running unit). After years of searching for a cheap one I finally found it, but there is a catch; it's not running. According to the seller, a Used Auto and Truck Dealer, it has a bad computer and transmission issues.

I am an aviation technician and a hobby auto mechanic with a pretty good mechanical background, a lot of auto mechanical experience.

The wagon looks awful; it's been sitting outside for a very long time, paint is a little burnt, but after taking a closer look at this Wagon, it looks pretty decent inside. Leather is in good condition; all seats, including the usual wear spots, are in good shape and original.

Inside the engine compartment, everything looks in place, including all plastic trims ducts, hardware, covers etc. The part that I really like is the fact that you can always tell when a vehicle has been seen by someone careless, wires routed the wrong way, missing hardware red silicone sticking out etc, but this is not the case in this one. Engine turns fine, and distribution belt is present and valve train is turning. I saw it through the oil fill.

The sellers gave me permission to do a full check on this wagon. I wanted to see if I could actually diagnose the trouble, do the math a make a substantially good offer. I have downloaded all available information for trouble shooting including code retrieval procedure etc.

To be very honest I really have a gut feeling that this wagon is just waiting for me to take it home. But it would be sad to buy it and not be able to get it running due to a major component failure that is very expensive to buy or impossible to get here in Chile. Also I would like to mention that the only Volvo Dealer in Chile also has Porsche so even thinking of taking this Wagon to those people is out of the question. I honestly think that this wagon has only a small detail or maintenance issue, it just needs to be targeted.

Answer:

It would be very difficult for a reputable Technician to recommend anyone to buy a particular used vehicle, even one he has personally examined. And to recommend a vehicle he has not been able to examine personally is bordering on irresponsible.

If it is your dream car then you should go for it. There is nothing on a car that cannot be fixed. Even lacking proper test equipment, it is still possible to make repairs. It will take more time and may be more expensive, but it can be done.

The fact that it's not running will make it easier to troubleshoot. Start with the basics, check and set the base ignition timing and do a wet/dry compression test. If both are good then the chances of finding the problem have gone up a bunch.

Now replace the distributor cap, distributor rotor, ignition wires and spark plugs. Once this is done then we know the basics we need for a running engine are good.

1. Check the fuses: Check that the following fuses are good:

2. Checking the "Check Engine" lamp (MIL): Generate a DTC in the Trionic control module. Unplug the Intake Air Temperature sensor 5 2-pin connector (diagnostic trouble code P0108 will be generated when the control module is energized). Place the ignition switch in the ON position. Check that the CHECK ENGINE lamp (MIL):

IMPORTANT: If the Trionic control module has stored another DTC there may be a different number of flashes.

If the "Check Engine" lamp (MIL) does not work as described above, the control module has no +30 supply, +15 supply or connection to ground.

3. Checking The Main Relay And Crankshaft Position Sensor: Since the main relay supplies the injectors and ignition discharge module with voltage, check the operation of the main relay as follows:

When the test lamp goes out, run the starter motor. The test lamp should then light up again. If it does not, the control module is receiving no information from the crankshaft position sensor.

4. Checking The Fuel Pump Relay: Since the fuel pump relay supplies power to the fuel pump, check the operation of this relay as follows:

A couple of other things you can quickly check are the ground wire(s) between the intake manifold and main harness, they have been known to come loose and cause different driveability problems. Also vacuum leaks and making sure all electrical connectors are clean and tight.

That's all for this week. Feel free to browse the archives for past topics. And, as always, if you are stuck and need an immediate answer you can always call Vince on the phone.

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