Acura Integra & Dodge Pickup

Question: 1994 Mazda 626

Mr. Ciulla, 1997 Dodge 1500 pickup / 4wl dr. 5.2 liter fuel injected via injectors Automatic trans., 126000 miles, ABS, PS, AC, Cruise. This vehicle has been giving me fits, and I am in need of help. It all started with a code of 0307 that comes from the OBD II system which indicates that it has a Cylinder #7 misfire. It does not flip a code on the OBD I system.

Here is a list of what I have done so far since this code has appeared, in order.

1. Clean carbon deposits from around the air throttle plate under the air cleaner
2. Replaced the air cleaner
3. New plugs, wires, cap and rotor
4. Had the fuel rails and injectors cleaned by a service center. Still shows 0307
5. I then took the #7 injector out of that cylinder and swapped it with the #3 cylinder to eliminate any possible problem with the #7 injector. Still a 0307 code
6. Compression test shows that the #7 cylinder runs at 125 psi. All other cylinders are between 145 and 165
7. Replaced MAP sensor and checked for any vacuum leaks, it still flips that code.

With the code cleared, the truck runs great for a day or so but will eventually start to idle rough, lack power and then flip the code. Once I clear the code again it runs good. I am aware of the service bulletin regarding the routing of spark plug wires, but the problem occurred even before I replaced the wires.

A couple of mechanic friends of mine said that they don't believe that the lower compression of the #7 cylinder is the culprit as the engine would run rough all of the time and not just when the code is activated. I have driven the truck as much as fifty miles or more and not have the code come on. Other days it will activate the code in as little as 20 miles.

The local Dodge dealer thinks it could be a cracked head, but of course they would have to look at it to be sure and I can't afford that. Also, I would think that if it was a cracked head, it wouldn't run very good at any time just like if it had a burned valve or something like that. Any help on this would be greatly appreciated, or if you need any clarification on this information let me know.

Thank you,

Jerry Eid

Answer:

Okay Jerry, you're right in that low compression would result in a misfire all the time, it would not come and go. The same can be said for a cracked cylinder head. So we can put those possibilities aside for the moment.

Swapping the injectors eliminate the possibility of a bad injector. Ignition wires are still a possibility so, I assume you have a copy of that TSB, I would route them carefully exactly as instructed in the TSB.

With all these possibilties eliminated that leaves only two. The injector wiring and the PCM itself.

Power for the injectors come from the Autoshut Down Relay through the dark green/orange wire. This wire feeds all eight injectors so a problem here would effect all the injectors. So we can eliminate that as a possibility for now.

That leaves the violet/tan wire from injector #7 to pin B2 of the PCM. So a check of this wire would be the next thing to do. Be sure you have a good, clean, tight connection at the injector and that connector C2 of the PCM is seated tightly. If they are, check the wire itself. I would run a second wire piggyback to the violet/tan wire and see if the problem goes away.

If it does then the violet/tan wire needs to be repaired or replaced. If the problem persists then the problem is inside the PCM itself.

Question: 1992 Acura Integra

Hi Vince!

I'll be attempting a full brake job on my '92 Integra this weekend. I received a $1400 and $2400 estimate to get it done, so I figured I'd buy the parts for $450 and do it myself. I have the Helms manual and a bunch of other articles to help out.

What I'm still a little confused by is "bleeding the brakes". I understand that the purpose it to get any air out of the lines, but am I also trying to replace all of the fluid with new fluid? I read to put a hose from the caliper to a bottle, but should that bottle have clean fluid in it?

Any tips would be great!

Thanks!

JP

Answer:

Normally brake bleeding is easiest done with a helper pumping the brakes and someone opening and closing the bleeder screws. But for replacing the brake fluid, which should be done every two years, I found it best to vacuum bleed. This pulls the old brake fluid rather than push the fluid which may damage the brake master cylinder. You can buy a Mityvac (MIT6820) Brake Bleeding Kit which is what I use in my shop.

When you are done with the brake job suck all the old fluid out of the master cylinder, an old turkey baster works well or you can use the Mity-Vac to do it. Then fill it with fresh brake fluid. Be sure the master cylinder never goes empty. Then bleed the brakes in the following order:

• Master cylinder (Both lines)
• Left front
• Right front
• Left rear
• Right rear

Keep bleeding until clear fluid comes out. When you're done be sure all the fittings are tight. Clean any spilled brake fluid with brake cleaner and have someone hold pressure on the brake pedal so you can check for leaks.

If you have a question or comment for me, you can e-mail me at autotechrepair at suite101.com.

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