Your Auto Repair Question Answers

This weekly Q&A session answers your questions about cars and trucks. This week explores a 1993 Nissan Pathfinder with a starting problem and a 1995 Volvo 850 with dash light problems.

Question: 1993 Nissan Pathfinder

Hello,

I saw your useful information on Nissan Pathfinders that don't crank. I too replaced my ignition switch, to little effect. My cruise control hasn't been working for a long while. I also replaced the big blue fuse in the center above the fuse panel. That killed my car alarm.

So, my cruise control doesn't work, my car alarm is shot, and my engine clicks when I turn the key. Sometimes it starts right up; other times it clicks for anywhere from 3 to 20 tries before starting. My starter tests fine.

I could really use your help in solving these problems.

• 1993 Nissan Pathfinder XE 4WD
• 3.0 liter V-6 VG30E
• Manual transmission
• 208,000 miles

One final note: I have a 500 RMS wattage stereo amplifier. I bought a deeper draw battery to handle it. The cranking problem existed before the amp.

I'm starting to go insane. I don't have the credit to get a car loan. I have to save the cash for a new car. I know the bluebook for this car, and am okay with never taking it to a shop. I learn pretty quickly. I can already do brake rotor, brake drum, and master cylinder replacements. I know how to unpack and re-pack my automatic hubs. I'm fixing to do a driver's side CV axle replacement. I have an AllData subscription.

I just need help so that I can minimize financial impact by not replacing parts that work fine.

Thank you!

Jonathan

Answer:

That big blue fuse in the center above the fuse panel is not a fuse it's a relay. If it is the center one, there are three, then the one you replaced is the Accessory Relay. There is another blue relay to the right of that and that is the Ignition relay. The one to the left is either a brown or blue relay and it is the Ignition Relay #2. Brown, blue and green relays are standardized relays and cannot be interchanged.

Right now the main problem is the starting, I think you can live without cruise control and the alarm for now.

There is a small black/yellow (B/Y) wire at the starter. With the key in the START position there should be power there. If there is the starting system up to that point is good. That leaves just the starter itself and it will need to be replaced. The fact that the starter clicks tells us that the problem is with the starter. A starter may test good on the bench but still not good enough to start the engine 100% of the time.

If there is no power there then go to the Starting and Charging section of your AllData and locate the wiring diagram. Trace the circuit from the starter towards the ignition switch checking for power as you go.

Once you get the starting problem fixed we can go on to the other problems.

Question: 1995 Volvo 850 Turbo

Dash lights were working intermittently. Now, when warm weather hits they don't work. But as soon as cooler temperatures arrive they work fine. On a cool night they will work but after a while will start going off and on. The radio light and turn signals work fine. I have tried to find all the connectors and plugs and checked to see if all were securely together but didn't solve problem.

Any suggestions?

Answer:

Most of the time the type of problem you describe and the times it happens are due to a loose connector. You're probably going to have to remove the instrument cluster to check the connections behind there. If all the connectors are clean and tight then you may have a bad instrument cluster PC board.

Also, if you are referring to the instrument cluster illumination lights, you may have a bad dimmer switch. It is a simple rheostat and goes bad more often than the solid-state dimmer switches.

That's all for this week. Feel free to browse the archives for past topics. And, as always, if you are stuck and need an immediate answer you can always call Vince on the phone.

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